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CWITHOUT A TEACHER; 



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BY 



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William 14 r allace. 



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Copyrighted 1881, by William Wallace. 



Having Secured the Exclusive Right of my System, according 

to Act of Congress, the Public are hereby notified that 

any Infringement of the same will be Prosecuted 

to the full extent of the Law. 



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OAKLAND. CA%.: lHi 



Pacific Press Publishing House. 
1881. 



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^T must be a source of no little surprise to those who have exam- 
\ ined the many devices invented to aid the dress-fitter to find 
, how few of them can lay claim to any merit whatever in dress- 
fitting. As a rule they are inconvenient, inaccurate and per- 
fectly useless in principle, and at best, nothing more than a set of 
graduated patterns giving the same shape for every form, having 
the same bust measure. But when we consider that ladies with 
the same size of bust are scarcely ever the same in shape, we 
need not be surprised at their want of merit and that parties using 
those systems seldom, if ever, fit the form for which the dress was 
intended. Consequently there is considerable time consumed in 
making the necessary alterations and which invariably ends in 
throwing the whole dress out of balance and utterly destroying its 
beauty and elegance 'of fit. The result of which is a serious con- 
sideration to every lady and especially so to those who have made 
the business of dress-making their choice as a means of support. 
Then the necessity for a system which will remove those difficul- 
ties and make dress-fitting a delight rather than an undesirable 
task, ought to be apparent to all interested in fitting. 

With this in view, and after years of experience in the business, 
William Wallace has invented and perfected a system which has 
removed entirely that anxiety and doubt with regard to the fit of 
a garment to which every dress-maker is subjected that fits by 
model, chart, or by that tedious method of pinning on the form. 



DRESS-FITTING. 



For convenience, simplicity, and accuracy it far surpasses any 
system now in use, and is fast superseding all others. It is simply 
a convenient square, with the advantage of curves, enabling the 
operator not only to draw accurate lines but also to draft any 
curve necessary in dress-making. 

And as the proportions of the measures of the different parts of 
the form are printed on the Eule, so any form from the smallest to 
the largest can be drafted without calculation. 

It gives to each form the exact dart required, thus obviating the 
difficulties arising from an incorrect dart. It gives the pitch of 
shoulder by measurement, thus avoiding the necessity of alterations 
on the shoulder and in the arm-hole; the result of which in almost 
every case is to shorten the side seam, change the fit of the hip and 
raise the waist and darts out of position; thereby throwing the 
whole pattern out of balance, which so frequently occurs by using 
systems giving the same pitch of shoulder to every form having 
the same bust measure. 

This book of instructions is so plain that even a person with or- 
dinary ability ought soon to learn to fit beautifully by it without 
the aid or expense of a teacher, and in case they should at any 
time afterwards forget points in drafting, their memories can 
easily be refreshed by reference to this little instructor. 

The following measurement for a medium sized form is given be- 
low as a guide to the pupil in learning to draft and also to show 
the order in which the measures are taken and noted down. 

Considerable time and trouble may be saved by learning the 
measures and their position below so that they can be easily recog- 
nized without having to write their names when you place them 
in your book of measures. 



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Directions for Taking the Measures. 

1. To tin d the bottom of waist. Tie a cord tight around the 
waist and pull it down as low as the dress can be worn. 

2. Bust size (32). Pa<s the tape around the breast above, (not 
over) the bust, drawing it snug up under the arms to take up all 
looseness. 

3. Length of front (13). Measure from hollow of neck to cord 
at waist. 

4. Length of shoulder (6£). From side of neck down shoulder 
seam as far as desired. 

5. Length of side seam (8 J). Place the tape at a point half 
an inch under the arm back of the armpit, allowing the tape to 
slant slightly back to cord at waist. 

6. Length of back (16). From prominent bene of neck to cord 
at waist. 

7. Size of waist (24). Around the belt as tight as desired. 

8. Hip size (38). Measure around the hips 8 inches below 
waist, snug, not too tight. 

9. Front Shoulder Slope (5). Place a cord against the front of 
neck, passing the ends over back of the shoulders close up under 
the arms to the center of front, even with the bottom of armholes, 
then tie it tight. Now measure from hollow of neck to cord. 

10. Back shoulder slope (8). Place a cord against back of 
neck, passing the ends over front of the shoulders back close up 
under the arms and tie it tight in center of back, even with the 
bottom of armholes. Now measure from neck bone down to cord. 

11. Length of skirts. Measure from waist down front, side and 
back. 

12. Length of sleeve. Place the arm in the shape of a square, 
then measure from where length of shoulder ends outside of arm 
to elbow and then to wrist. 



DRESS-FITTING. 



Diagram A. Illustrates the Dress-Fitting Rule. 

A. Long arm of rule, 18 inches long. E. Short arm, 3| inches 
long. D. Upper front neck. E. Lower front neck. F. Back of 
neck. G. Size of breast. H. Size of back. I. Front armhole. 
J. Size of front armhole. K. Size of back armhole. S. Curve for 
sleeve head. From Z to bust number in size of breast is the length 
of back shoulder slope for children. 

The length of front shoulder slope for children is from bust num- 
ber in lower front neck to the same number in size of bust. 



Curve No. 1, or forming rule. Curve^No. 2 or neck curve. Cor- 
ner No. 1 of rule. Corner No. 2 of rule. Dart No. 1. Dart No. 
2. Figure 3, Point of rule. Fig. 4, Back waist line. Figure 5, 
Star used in drafting collars. Fig. 6, Size of back neck for collars. 

How to Become Familiar with the Rule and to Use 

it Easily. 

Study it carefully by the aid of the above diagram, until you 
can readily name and point out every part of it. Then the in- 
struction how to use it-in drafting will be more easily understood. 
And before attempting to draft with it, examine carefully diagrams 
B and C, front and back of plain waist, and read the instruction 
for drafting them. In this way you will soon become acquainted 
with the different parts of the rule and diagrams. The formation 
of the pattern then will be an easy matter. 

This is the ABC of all drafting, and if you should rush on with- 
out first learning thoroughly each diagram in the order in which 
they are here presented, you will without doubt experience the 
same difficulties that a child does in trying to read without first 
learning the alphabet. 

1. To Draft Front of Waist. 

Place the long arm of the Eule two inches from edge of paper, 
this is for hem and lap, of an open-front garment, with the short 
arm near the top of paper. 

For a garment closed in front place Eule on edge of paper or 
fold of cloth. 



DRESS-FITTING. 



2. For Front Neck. 

Dot at bust number (32) at upper and lower front neck as at 
dots 1 and 2 — see diagram B of front waist. Then move corner 
No. 1 of Eule down to dot 2 and draw line A from dot 2 to lower 
end of Eule, and dot on line A for front shoulder slope (say five 
inches from dot 2) as at dot 3 and also for length of front (say 
thirteen inches from dot 2) as at dot 4. 

3. To Curve Front Neek. 

With the unprinted side of the Eule up, place point of Role on 
dot 2 and curve No. 2 against dot 1 and draft curve B. 




4. To Obtain Size of Bre ist. 

Place the short arm of Eule 
square against line A, and corner 
No. 1 on dot 3 with the long arm 
straight across the paper and dot 
at bust number (32] on front 
breast as at dot 5, and draw line 
C straight out from dot 5. 



5. To Obtain Size of Armhole. 

Place corner -No. 2 ot'Enle on short line C at dot 5, and the long 
arm straight up the paper. Now dot at bust (32) in size of aroi- 
liole as at dot 6 and also at same number at front arm for pitch ot 
shoulder as at dot 7. 

6. Shoulder Line. 

Place corner No. 1 on dot 1 and the long arm on dot 7, and 
draw line _D the desired length. 

7. To Curve Line E. 

Place the Eule with dart No. 2 at dot 5, and curve No. 1 at end 
of line D and draw line E. 

8. To Curve Line F. 

Place the point of Eule with the unprinted side up at dot 5, and 
curve No. 1 at dot 6 and draw line F. 

9. Length of Side Seam. 

Measure from dot 6 straight down the desired length of waist 
(8£) and dot as at dot 8. 

10. 

Draw line G from dot 4 even with dot 8, the same distance as 
from dot 3 to dot 6, and dot as at dot 9. Then draw side line H 
from dot 6 to dot 9. This completes front of waist. 



DRESS-FITTING-. 



1 . Diagram C, Back of waist. 

Place the Eule as directed in front waist, then draw line A from 
bust number (32) in back neck to corner No. 1 — see diagram C of 
back. Then draw line B from line A to lower end of Eule for 
center of back. 

2. For Back Shoulder Slope and Length of Back. 

Before moving the Eule dot for back shoulder slope ( 8 inches 
from line A) on line B as at dot 1, and also for length of back (16 
from line A) on line B as at dot 2. 

3. For Width of Back. 

Place the short arm of the Eule evenly against line B with cor- 
ner No. 1 on dot 1 and dot at bust (32) in scale for size of back as 
at dot 3, and draw line C out from dot 3. 




Size of Armhole. 

Place corner No. 2 on line C at dot 3, and long arm straight up 
the paper and dot at bust (32) in back arm as at dot 4. 

5. Length of Shoulder. 

Place corner No. 1 of Eule on line A and long arm on dot 4, 
and draw line D the desired length for shoulder, making the back 
shoulder a half inch longer than front shoulder. 

6. To Curve Back Armhole. 

Place the Eule as directed in diagram B of front, and draw 
line E from line D to dot 3. 

7. For Length of Side Seam. 

Measure from dot 3 straight down the paper a half an inch less 
than the actual measure for side seam, and dot as at dot 5. 

8. For Size of Back Waist. 

Place the back waist-line on line B at dot 2 with the long arm 
on dot 5. Now dot at waist, size (24) in size of back as at dot 
6 and draw line F from dot 6 to dot 2. Then draw line G from dot 
3 to dot 6 by placing the S on Eule at dot 6 and curve No 1 against 
dot 3 with the unprinted side up. 



DRESS-FITTING-. 



1. To Draft Front of Basque with Two Darts and Side 

Form. 

Draft front of plain waist as instructed in diagram B. Then ex- 
tend line A straight down as far below the waist line as the 
length of lining is desired. 

2. How to Get Side Form. 

Draw line I down from dot 5 as far as the length of lining is 
desired, parallel with line A and dot on line I 8 inches below waist 
line as at dot 10, see diagram D. 

3. How to Get Front Hip Spring. 

Find hip number (38) in front neck and place it on line I at dot 
10 with the long arm straight up the paper, and dot at corner No. 
1 of Eule as at dot 11. 

4. To Draw Line J. 

Place dart No. 1 at waist line and curve No. 1 at dot 11 and 
draw line J. 




5. To Get Side Spring or Line K. 

Place corner No. 1 on dot 6 with long arm against dot 9, and 
dot 8 inches below waist as at dot 12. Then find hip number (38) 
in back neck and place it on dot 12, with the long arm straight up 
paper, and dot at corner No. 1 as at dot 13, and then draft line K 
as per diagram. Bear in mind that the width of spring for front 
over hip, is from hip number on front neck to corner No. 1 of Eule 
and width of spring for side over hip is from hip measure on back 
neck to corner No. 1 of Eule. 



8 DRESS-FITTING-. 



6. For Upper Point of Back Dart. 

Place corner No. 1 at dot 5 with the long arm on dot 4 and dot 
at bust (32) in lower front neck, as at dot 14. 

7. For Upper Point of Front Dart. 

Place the short arm square against line A with the long arm on 
dot 14, and dot midway between dot 14 and line A, and a half inch 
lower than dot 14, as at dot 15. 

8. For Center of Front Dart. 

Draw line L from dot 15 to waist parallel with line A. Then 
extend it below the waist as far as the length of dart is desired, 
parallel with line A, or inclined back as desired. The center of 
back dart must not be drawn until the width of darts are ascer- 
tained and spaced off. 

9. How to Obtain the Width of Darts, 

Subtract the waist (24) from the bust (32), and divide the dif- 
ference (8 inches) by 4 (the number of darts used), and the result 
is 2 inches, the width of dart required. Or for example, if the 
waist was 30 and the bust 36, the difference would be 6. Now, if 
there are 6 inches in 4 darts, then there must be 1^ inches in one 
dart. 

10. How to Place the Width of Dart Obtained. 

We find that the size of the dart in this case is 2 inches, 
and that line L is the center of front dart. Now place half of the 
dart, which is one inch, on each side of line L at waist line, and 
dot as at dots 16 and 17 for front dart. Make the space between 
front and back dart as desired, say from f inch to 1J inches, as 
between dots 17 and 18. Then measure 2 inches from dot 18 on 
waist line and dot as at dot 19 for width of back dart. Then 
draw center of back dart as per diagram. 

11. To Rule Darts. 

The darts are straight below the waist and curved above. To 
draw the curves place dart No. 1 at dot 14 and curve No. 1 against 
dot 19, and draw curve from dot to dot. In the same manner 
finish the darts. 



DRESS-FITTING-. 



9 



1. How to Draft Skirt for Plain Back. 

Draft back of plain waist as directed in diagram C. Then ex- 
tend line B 8 inches straight down from waist, and dot as at dot 7. 
Now spring center of back J inch from dot 2 as at dot 8, and the 
same distance out from dot 7 as at dot 9, and draw a line from dot 
1 to dot 8 and from dot 8 through dot 9 as far down as the length of 
lining is desired, see diagrams E and F. 




2. How to Get Line H. 

Make the distance from dot 7 to dot 10 2 inches more than 
from dot 2 to dot 6, and draw line from dot 6 through dot 10 as far 
down as desired. 

How to Draft Skirt to Back with Seam. 

Draft the back 
lof plain waist as 
in diagram C, 
and spring the 
reenter of back 
as in diagram E. 



2. To Draft Seam to Shoulder. 

Make the back and side any width desired as at dot 10. Then 
dot on shoulder line as at dot 11. Then draw line H straight down 
from dot 11 through dot 10, as far below the waist as the length 
is desired, and dot on line H 8 inches below waist, as at dot 12, 
See diagram F. 

3. How to Place Seam to Armhole. 

Dot at armhole as at dot 13, and with curve No. 1, draw any curve 
desired from dot 13 to dot 10. Then extend line H as directed 




Spring for line I is obtained by making the distance from dot 7 
to dot 14 one inch more than from dot 2 to dot 10. Line J is 
obtained by making the distance from dot 12 to dot 15 two inches 
more than from dot 10 to dot 6. 



10 



DRESS-FITTING. 



1. To Draft Front With Hip Dart. 

Draft front of plain waist as directed in diagram B, with the 
exception of leaving a space at the bottom of armhole. For hip 
dart see diagram G. 

2. How to Obtain the Space for Hip Dart. 

Place corner No. 1 of _Rule at dot 5 with short arm of Eule even 
with short line C, and the long arm straight down the paper. 
Now draw short line I out from the hip number (38) in front neck. 

3. To Get Size of Armhole. 

Place corner No. 2 on line I with the long arm straight up the 
paper, and dot at bust (32) in armhole scale as at dot 6. Then 
place the Rule in the same way on line C at dot 5, and dot at the 
same number (32) in front arm as at dot 7 for pitch of shoulder, 
and then proceed the same as in diagram B until waist is finished. 

4. To Set Hip Dart. 

Rule line J from dot 5 to waist line parallel with line A, and 
before moving the Rule, dot 8 inches below waist straight with line 
J as at dot 10. Then place the hip (38) in upper front neck on 
dot 10, and long arm of Rule against dot I, and Rule line K from 
dot I to waist line. Then dot two-thirds of the way from dot 10 
to corner No. 1, as at dot 11. Then curve dirt below wais*t. 




Get side spring L in the same manner as directed for line K 
in diagram D. 

6. To Obtain the Upper Point when Only One Dart is 

Used. 

Get the upper points of both darts as instructed in diagram D, 
as at dots 14 and 15 on diagram G. Then place the upper point of 
the one dart to be used any desired place between dots 14 and 15 
as at dot 16. Then draw center line of the one dart as directed in 
drawing center of front dart in diagram D. 



DRESS-FITTING-. 1 1 



7. To Determine Width when only One Dart is Used. 

Divide the difference between the waist and the bust by 2, and 
the result is the size of dart desired. Then place this amount 
equally on each side of center line at waist as at dots 17 and 18. 
Then rule dart as per diagram*. See instructions in darts. 

Instructions in the Use of Darts. 

As the darts are one of the most important factors in dress-fit- 
ting, therefore, to be able to determine their size so as to give the 
desired fullness, is, 1 can assure you, no small advantage in fitting. 

The correctness of my manner of obtaining the size of darts 
given on page 8, can easily be seen if we but consider that the full- 
ness taken up at the waist in darts or otherwise should only be 
the taper or difference between waist and bust; and although this 
should invariably be the rule for fixing the size of darts, still there 
are cases where this difference should not all be put in the darts 
but a portion of it should be taken up at other points on the waist 
line, as at dotted line at front, and hip dart in diagram Gr. For 
example, if the difference would make very large darts, that would 
have a tendency to draw too much fullness to one point, then a 
portion of it should be taken up at other points as directed above. 

Then in forms where the waist and bust are almost equal, leaving 
little or nothing for darts. Although in this case I contend that 
the difference between the waist and bust taken in darts will give 
an accurate fit. Still, to avoid the plain appearance that this 
would cause, the darts should be enlarged and the form padded. 

Bear in mind that in order to retain the size of waist, the 
amount added to or taken from the darts must also be added to or 
taken from the waist line, as the case may be. 

How to Determine the Length of Darts. 

We usually make the dart from 8 to 11 inches below the waist, 
according to the form. If very full below the waist, make short 
darts, but if flat, use long darts. 

How to Transfer Pattern to Lining. 

When the front is drafted with side body, see diagram!), these 
pieces must be traced separately on to the lining, and if it is a 
seamless or closed front, place line A on fold of cloth, but if an 
open front, allow for hem and lap by placing line A 2 inches from 
edge of cloth. Trace front first from bottom of line J to waist, 
from waist up line I to dot 5, to dot 7, to dot 1, and then to dot 2. 
Now trace down front on outside line, a quarter of an inch from, and 
parallel with, line A for lap for buttons. The hem is folded to this line 
when basting. Then finish front by tracing waist line and darts. 

Front Side Body, 

First cut side body out of the pattern and place it on the cloth, 
and allow for seam by placing line I a half inch from selvage, and 
trace on drafted lines. 



12 



DBESS-FITTING. 



Seams. 

"With the exception of at armhole and neck, allow about three- 
quarters of an inch for seams when cutting out the garment. 

Swelled Front. 

0. Allow for hem and lap as directed, and trace for lap on dotted line 
as per diagram G-. This front is traced on the lining in one piece. 

Back. 

If closed with seam in center of back allow for seam, but if 
open in back allow for hem and lap and trace it on the lining as 
directed in front. 

When convenient, always trace on the double of the cloth, for 
when the pieces are traced singly they are liable to be unequal 
and both traced for one side. 

To Draft Sleeve. 

Place the long arm of Eule a half inch from edge of paper with 
short arm near top. Now dot at letter S on Eule as at dot 1, see 
diagram H. Then draw line A from bust (32) in front of neck to 
corner No. 1 as at dot 2. Then draft line B from dot 2 to lower 
end of Eule. Next dot for curve for head of sleeve as at dot 3; 

of rule to dot 3 and dot at bust (32) in 
Then dot for length to elbow as at dot 5. 



now move corner No. 1 
front neck as at dot 4. 




Then draw line C from dot 5 as far as desired for length to 
wrist, making curve from elbow to wrist as style may dictate. 

Next place short arm of Eule on line C with corner No. 1 at 
end of line C, and draw line D from line C as far as the size of 
wrist is desired, usually 5 inches for ladies and^'4 inches for 
children. 

The size of elbow is obtained by placing corner No. 1 on dot 5 
with the opposite corner of Eule a quarter of an inch below line 
B, and dot at bust (32) in size a of back as at dot 6. Then place 
corner No. 1 on dot 2 and the long arm on dot 1, and dot at bust 
(32) in size of breast as at dot 7. Then curve line E from dot 7 to 
dot 4, for under part of sleeve; and also curve line F from dot 7 
through end of line A to dot 3, for upper part of sleeve. Then draw 
xine H from dot 7 through dot 6 to end of line D. Next draw 
ine G from dot 4 Jbhrough dot 8 to line D. 



DRESS-FITTING-. 



13 



Over-Garments. 

Take the measures as directed on page 3, for all kinds of gar- 
ments for ladies, and when drafting for over-garments, make the 
bust and waist from one to two numbers larger, according to the 
looseness desired. For example, to draft an over-sacque by the 
measurement for tight basque given on page 2, add two inches to 
waist and bust. Then we have the measurement for an over-gar- 
ment as follows: 

34, ij, 6J, 8J, A 26, 38, 18, 11, 10. 

Loose Over-Sacque with French Back. No Darts. 

1. Front — Draft plain waist by the above measurement as 
directed in diagram B. Then dot at center of armhole as at dot 
10, and dot on waist line as at dot 11, and also dot 8 inches belovv 
waist as at dot 12; observing that dots 11 and 12 are the same 
distance from line A as dot 10, see diagram I. Now dot one inch 
from dot 11 on waist line as at dot 14. 




2. Find spring for hip in the same way as directed in diagram 
D, and dot as at dot 13. 

3. Place dart No. 1 on dot 14 and curve No. 1 on dot 13 and 
draw curve line J from dot 13 to dot 14. 

4. Next place S on Eule at dot 10, and curve No. 1 of Rule at 
line J. and curve line I from dot 10 to line J, as per diagram. 
When drafting this kind of front for polonaise, princess dress, etc., 
draw line I straight from dot 10 to dot 11, and curve line J from 
dot 13 to dot 11. The space from dot 11 to dot 9, and from dot 10 
to dot 6 is added to back. 



14 



DRESS-FITTING. 



1. To Draft Narrow French Back, 

Draft back of plain waist as per diagram C, with the exception 
of line G, which must be left open until the amount left off at front 
is added to the back at waist as from dot 6 to dot 7, and as from 
dot 3 to dot 4, at armhole, see diagram J. Then draw line Gr from 
dot 7 to dot 4 the same length as line of front. 




Now spring the center of back as directed in diagram E, and 
obtain line H, line 1, and line J as directed in diagram F. This 
style of front and back may be used in any style of tight and loose 
garments. Loose sacques and wrappers may be drafted with side 
form or hip dart, and any of the different styles of back may be used. 

Size of Skirts at Bottom. 

In determining the size of a skirt, the party for whom it is 
intended, its length, style and fullness must be taken into consider- 
ation, and as polonaise and all long dresses are cut in several 
pieces, and the size determined on must be proportioned among 
those pieces according to their size, so in order to aid the pupil, the 
following scale of sizes of skirts ranging all the way from H 
yards to 31 yards, gives the exact proportions for each piece with- 
out calculation. 



D 


51 


6 


61 


7 


71 


7| 


8 


81 


8| 


9 


9i 


91 


10 


101 


C 


101 


11 


in 


12 


121 


13 


14 


15 


16 


17 


18 


181 


19 


20 


£ 


17 


18 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


A 


U 


1! 


1 7 


2 


21 


21 


21 


2| 


21 


21 


3 


31 


31 


31 


E 


15 


16 


17 


18 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


F 


7 


n 


8 


81 


9 


91 


10 


101 


11 


111 


12 


121 


13 


131 


G 


8 


81 


9 


91 


10 


101 


11 


12 


121 


13 


131 


14 


141 


15 






DRESS-FITTING-. 15 

Explanation of Scale. 

A. Full size of skirt in yards. 

B. The proportion in inches for front when it is drafted in one 
piece. 

C. The proportion for front when it is drafted with side gore. 

D. The proportion for front side gore. 

E. The proportion for back when it is in one piece. 

F. The proportion for back when it is cut with side gore. 

G. The proportion for back side gore. 

How to Draft Skirt for a Wrapper by Above Scale. 

Place the lining of front waist on the goods, and measure down 
from waist for length of skirt, and dot. Then say, for example 5 
that the skirt is three yards at bottom, and you want to ascertain 
what proportion of this amount you will need for front and side 
gore of front at bottom. Now find three yards in column A, and 
above it on column C and D you will find 18 inches for front and 
91 inches for side gore. But if the front is drafted in one piece, 
then use 27 above the number 3 and in column B. 

For Back Skirt. 

Proceed in the same way, but use the numbers below column A 
for back pieces. 

Instructions for Measuring Children. 

In taking the measures too much caution cannot be exercised, 
for no matter how accurate the system, it cannot make a fit from 
an incorrect measure. 

The measurement below is for children, and is taken when the 
bust is 26 and under, but when over 26, take a full measure the 
same as directed for ladies. 

24 4f 6i 22 23 7 6 

g * 

o -5 






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2 ' *t &C hC £: 

* M 3 »S © - © © 

PQ m m i> m ^ Eh 

The bust and waist measures must not be taken as tight for 
children as for ladies. Take length of skirt from hollow in neck 
as low down as desired. The length of shoulder, waist and sleeve 
are taken the same as for ladies. 



16 



DRESS-FITTING-. 



To draft front of child's gored dress, see diagram K. Place the 
rule and draft neck the same as diagram B, but before moving the 
rule draw line A from dot 2 to lower end of rule and dot on line A 
at bust (24) in size of breast as at dot 3 for front shoulder slope. 
The balance of the plain waist is drafted the same as diagram B. 
Bear in mind that the length of front shoulder slope for children is 
obtained from bust number in lower front neck to same number in 
pize of breast. 




To draft seam or gore to shoulder in front. Draft it precisely 
the same as directed in diagram F of back, using the same springs 
at hip. 

For front of little sacque dress. Draft the same as above, with 
the exception of leaving out gore to shoulder. Make dot 15 three 
inches more from dot 7, than dot 9 is from line A. 

For little sacque apron. Draft the same as for sacque dress, but 
add 2 inches to bust and waist measures for looseness. 

For front of a child's princess dress. Draft precisely the same 
as directed in diagram G. Make the space for hip dart about one 
inch and a quarter and use one front dart. 

By slight changes the front of any style of child's dress can be 
drafted after the plain waist is obtained. 

Diagram L. Back and side body for a child's gored or princess 
dress. Drafted the same as diagram F, with the exception of the 
neck which is curved f inch below corner No. 1, as at dot No. 2 
and side seam, which is drafted \ inch less than front side seam, 
instead of a half inch as for ladies. 




DRESS-FITTING-. 17 



To obtain length of back shoulder slope for children. Place Z 
on Eule at dot 2 and dot on line B at bust (24) in size of breast as 
at dot 3. 

For back of a little sacque dress. Draft without side body the 
same as diagram E. 

Any style of back drafted for ladies can also be drafted for chil- 
dren by observing the above instructions in reference to back 
shoulder slope and curve of neck. 

A child's sleeve is drafted the same as diagram H, with the ex- 
ception of dotting at bust number in back of neck for dot 4, in- 
stead of in front of neck as for ladies and making size of elbow f 
of an inch less than bust number in size of back. 



How to Draft Collars. 




Place the long arm of rule on edge of paper with short arm 4 
or 5 inches from top and dot at bust number in upper and lower 
front neck as at dob 1 and 2. See diagram M. And before moving 
the Eule, dot at bust number in size of breast as at dot 3; now 
curve neck. 

Then place corner No. 1 on dot 3 with short arm even with edge 
of paper and dot at star on long arm of Eule as at dot 4. Then 
place long arm on dot 4 and dot 1 with bust number in back of 
neck for collars at olot 1, and while the Eule is in this position draft 
line C from dot 1 to corner No. 1 for back of neck, and line Dfrom 
line C along short arm of Eule for center of back. Now, having 
the neck complete, any style of collar may be drafted. Diagram 
M represents a sailor's collar and a low neck revere. 



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